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Factory
Photo Gallery Tour
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Each home is
constructed on a structurally designed, solid steel, welded I-beam frame
(not corrugated). The structural steel front I-beam header, along with full
outriggers on 14' wide and 16' wide sections, adds extra support in load-bearing
areas. Each frame is sealed with a rust-inhibitive black paint.
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A reinforced
polyvinyl bottom board is laid on top of the frame. Next, a blanket of R-11
fiberglass insulation covers the polyvinyl bottom board. The water supply
lines are placed within the sub-floor. All electrical cables are also placed
within the sub-floor and brought up only where necessary for connections.
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The typical floor
is 2 x 8 transverse construction on 16" centers. The floor system is lag-bolted
to the frame. Before the oriented strand board floor decking is glued and
nailed to the sub-floor framing, quality control checks are performed. The
electrical installation must meet strength, apparatus, continuity, operational
and polarity checks.
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Computer automation
calculates every wall dimension, ensuring each cut will be precise. The walls
are built in sections, then covered on one side with gypsum board. All wall
studs are 16" on center; the exterior walls are 2 x 6 construction, interior
walls are crafted with 2 x 4 studs. The marriage wall (where the home is joined
together in the center) is a double wall consisting of 2 x 4 studs, leaving
you with a sturdy 8" center line wall.
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After the wall
sections are completed they are hoisted into position and nailed and/or bolted
to the floor. All electrical cables and plumbing lines are then brought up
into place and a series of quality control checks are completed. The interior
walls are now closed with the outer layer of gypsum interior panels secured
into place.
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All exterior
and marriage wall studs are securely fastened to the floor and to each roof
rafter with a solid 26-gauge steel up-lift strap. Beginning within two feet
of the front and rear of the home, hurricane tie-down connectors and straps
are installed to the floor and between the perimeter floor joist and the
outer layer of 3/8" structural sheathing.
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Because Jacobsen
has been building custom homes for over 40 years, we have always had our own
in-house cabinet shop. When changes are made to a kitchen or bath, we have
the capability to easily change cabinet layouts to adapt. Countertops are
available in a wide variety of colors.
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Between each
rigid exterior wall stud a layer of R-19 fiberglass insulation is packed
in for maximum energy efficiency. All wall insulation has a paper backing
which lays against the interior side of the wall. This method prevents moisture
from forming in-between the walls.
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Next, we wrap
the entire perimeter of the home with an exposure 1, 3/8" structural sheathing.
Not only does this method add strength to the home, it prevents air filtration,
adds protection from windblown debris, provides additional "R"-value to the
walls and helps to prevent moisture from penetrating the walls.
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In the roof cavity
we spray a thick cushion of R-30 premium cellulose insulation; this helps
in lowering your monthly electric bill. Before the rafters are covered with
oriented strand board roof sheathing, a whole-house ventilation system is
installed and quality control checks are made on the roof cavity.
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On the underside
of the gypsum ceiling board the joints are taped and sealed, then sprayed
with a vapor barrier primer sealer. At this point a decorative knockdown ceiling
is applied.
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The roof trusses
are 16" on center. Each rafter is foamed to the half-inch gypsum ceiling boards
(sheetrock); this method bonds the gypsum board to the rafters, eliminating
the use of unsightly fasteners, and also strengthens the ceiling. Each truss
is secured to the aligned wall stud with a 26-gauge steel uplift strap. All
trusses located within 3' of the ends of each home roof are doubled to strengthen
against uplifting winds.
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On top of the
roof sheathing we start by putting a layer of one-piece asphalt impregnated
shingle underlayment; a 12" cement border around the roof secures this layer
of underlayment. Then a layer of 15-pound roofing felt is applied, creating
a double layer shingle underlayment. Next, we install asphalt fiberglass roof
shingles, which come in a variety of colors and carry a 20-year limited warranty.
Each shingle is secured into place with six fasteners.
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In 1999, the
State of Florida enacted set-up guidelines that exceed those required by
the Federal HUD standards. Each home must be set up by a licensed installer
to meet all State and Federal installation building codes. Homes are set
on top of piers with a maximum spacing of 8' on center. These piers consist
of celled masonry blocks set on top of a pier foundation which may consist
of solid concrete precast pads or other materials approved and listed by
the department.
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HUD code manufactured
homes are securely anchored with galvanized anchors which are augered into
the ground a minimum of 4' deep/ These anchors are located at side walls (a
maximum of 5'4" on center), shear walls, end walls, and ridge beam openings.
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Vertical and
diagonal tie-downs are installed on each section of the home to resist uplift
and sliding forces caused by the wind. Longitudinal tie-downs are designed
to resist horizontal wind loads on the ends of the home. These galvanized
steel tie-down straps are attached to the ground anchor heads according to
State and Federal installation building codes. Florida requires all anchor
equipment to be double galvanized to resist corrosion caused by the elements.
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You've done your
research, you've found the perfect homesite, designed a great floor plan,
selected all the right colors...now it is time for you to relax and enjoy
your new Jacobsen Home.
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